A Bout de Soufflé

Few desserts elicit such a charismatic reaction quite like a precariously risen soufflé.

From the way that Jacques Capsouto effortlessly dances around the kitchen, soufflés do not appear that fickle. “I don’t know why everyone is intimidated by soufflés,” Jacques said, as he folded with focused attention. “It is not magic. Crème patisserie, liquor, confiture and eggs – all of it blended together.” Knowing how to whip egg whites seems to be the most difficult part. With a pinch of salt (to add stability), Jacques beats them slightly beyond soft peaks, until the whites are glossy and no longer slide off the whisk when raised. Within mere minutes, and several swirls of a spatula, a fluffy soufflé batter comes into existence easily.

Piled high in the ramekin, Jacques runs his finger around the edge creating a slight dome, as he does not approve of the flat tops currently in vogue with many chefs. Into the oven and fifteen impatient minutes later, the dramatic build up of a rising soufflé sure seems like magic. What begins as a simple batter emerges into a towering, glorious cloud, light and airy with a custardy center. Whatever the mystery, the aroma is so enticing one cannot help leaning over the ramekins and inhaling.

Capsouto Freres is a classic French bistro housed in a former spice warehouse by the Hudson and referred to as the “soufflé sanctuary.” While the menu is an alluring [interesting] blend of traditional French and contemporary fare, it is the soufflés, both sweet and savory, that garner the most attention. For more than twenty-seven years, Jacques Capsouto has been making, which he very proudly states, the best soufflés you will probably ever eat.

Made to order, Capsouto Freres serves three sweet flavors – chocolate, raspberry and hazelnut – all year long, with one additional seasonal offering. Tangerine is the current flavor du jour; but some in the past have been apricot, Meyer lemon, orange, quince and fig. Served tableside, the waiter ceremoniously pierces a hole in the billowing top, pours in a complementary sauce, and tops with a dollop of whipped cream.

These soufflés are potent. Light, graceful and texturally eclectic, one taste induces mouths into soft smiles. Go ahead – swoon. Under the circumstances, any other response would be in bad taste.